Mongolian wrestling — bökh

Bökh is the soul of Naadam. At the national festival 512 wrestlers (1,024 in anniversary years) meet in nine knockout rounds across two days. There are no weight classes and no ring boundaries: touch the ground with anything above your knee — a knee, an elbow, your head — and you are out.

The costume carries its own legends. The open-chested vest (zodog) and briefs (shuudag) are red for the eternal flame or blue for the eternal sky. The chest is open, so the story goes, because a woman once entered in disguise and defeated every man — since then the vest proves each competitor is male. The four-sided hat recalls the four ancient provinces of Mongolia, and every winner performs the devekh, the eagle dance, around the state banner.

Titles are earned by rounds won at the national Naadam and kept for life: Nachin (falcon) for five rounds, Khartsaga (hawk), Zaan (elephant), Garuda, Arslan (lion) for winning the tournament, and Avarga (titan) for repeat champions. Each wrestler is accompanied by a zasuul — a herald who sings his titles and holds his hat.

In 2011 Mongolia set a Guinness World Record with 6,002 wrestlers competing at once. To see the sport at its most intimate, watch the early rounds on the morning of 11 July, or any countryside naadam where the circle of spectators is the arena.